Oil Painter - Few Amazing Tips to Become Good Oil Painter: By Murtaza Habib

Oil paint contains a unique process and an artist has to understand it properly, if he wants to create a better painting. The purpose of this article is to make sure that you learn the basic process of oil painting and create beautiful painting. The basic law of oil painting is to find out the technique that suits your style and personality.

It's important that you learn the language and laws of oil painting as under, if you are new to this painting style.

1. This paint is wet.
2. This painting style is done using brushes.
3. It is different as compared to other painting media you have been using.

You have to think like an oil painter to create good oil paintings. Accept the fact that the oil painter looks at the world differently as compared to other people. Don't focus on the subject that is given to you for painting.

Keep the oil paint in your mind and treat the subject like the process only. Clear the process in your mind and apply the action using your brush. When you gain this thinking style, you can create any kind of painting no matter what the subject is. Don't take this point lightly, because I have told you the secret that I have never told anyone as yet. You should have your own unique style to see the world.

Capture the new ideas and make a note if possible. Always be confident about your success while creating the painting. Choose the right method that suits your style and keep going on. Don't confuse yourself by asking many questions regarding the selection of surface, brush and other stuff. You just need to keep remember all the procedure required to create the painting.

If possible then read the oil painting books and gain deep knowledge regarding this painting style.

Learn from todays expert how to paint and draw step by step with the help of pictures on your core subject whether it is oil, watercolor, acrylic, fabric painting, pencil, cartoon drawing, or digital art.

Explore your creativity with these 1750 tutorials - Painting and Drawing lessons [http://www.paintonmycanvas.com/ezine.html]

'Murtaza Habib' has helped hundreds of newbies to start their painting courses, now you can do it too...



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Learn How To Paint Watercolors Fast - Use Only 1 Color

Learning to paint fast is difficult. Some say it feels impossible...

But it doesn't have to be so hard...

Like all skills, whether in Arts, Crafts or any profession the trick is to remove complication. Watch any expert work and you will be amazed how quickly they make the impossible seem easy...

Think of a Blacksmith making horseshoes on his anvil...

He knows how to make the fire hot enough to make the metal soft without melting
He knows that every strike of his hammer will shape and mould the steel
He knows just how to trim the hoof to make the shoe fit
He never doubts his ability to give the horse he makes the shoes for exactly what is needed for comfort and wear
It is an honor to see a craftsman at work. It is a privilege to witness the accumulation of many years hands-on knowledge.

Learning to be an artist takes time. Learning to paint professionally can take many years...

The fastest way to learn to paint watercolors is to take it in small stages... starting simple and building painting skills with small steps.

The first step is to paint watercolor using 1 color... it can't get any simpler...

You learn how to thin watercolor paint with your brush
You learn how much water you need to get a certain tone of color
You learn how to use water to carry color pigment across your watercolor paper
You learn what can go wrong when you touch your wet paper with a brush full of color
You learn to expect surprises
You learn to want to encourage surprises by experimenting with new techniques
And, most importantly, you get the opportunity to learn to draw with your watercolor brush... You learn how to make your brush become your best friend.

When you use only 1 color to learn how to paint watercolors it is easy to concentrate...

You can quickly learn how to get color tone right
You soon learn that color will flood and spread across wet paper
You know that if an earlier wash is fully dry it will be spoiled if you let your next brush mark touch
You find yourself doing amazing things with watercolors fast because you don't have to worry about which colors you need to mix that favorite green, or the orange you saw in last night's sunset.

Learning how to paint watercolors using only 1 color helps you learn fast because you don't even need to worry about making mistakes...

It is quick and easy to do it again because you have kept it simple
You have perfected the basics of learning watercolor painting
Perfect the basics of watercolor painting and nothing can stop you from mastering the next stage... Learning How To Mix Colors.

Michael Dale is the author of 1- Color Is Best (the quick and easy way to learn to paint watercolor) and 3- Colors Are All You Need (mix any color you want fast using only 3 colors). Contact [http://www.Paint-And-Draw.com] to find out more.

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Five Most Common Problems Beginner Painters Have

For people who are interested in learning how to paint with either acrylic or oil paint may experience a few common learning problems. These are the most common problems people have when they are learning how to paint. You can overcome these common problems with some basic knowledge and problem solving skills that will eventually get you past these difficulties.

There are five common problems beginner painters have:

1. Very little experience in drawing prior to learning how to paint.

You really need to have some knowledge or experience in beginning drawing before you ever pick up a paint brush. Using a pencil to draw is a lot easier skill than using a paint brush. You should have some basic knowledge about shapes, forms, lines, and values (shading) to enable you to understand how to manipulate colors in your paint. You need to take your time and not hurry through your drawing in order to get the composition of your picture placed in the most effective way in your picture. If you can draw out the picture in a sketch book prior to actually drawing it on your canvas; this will help to iron out any problems that may arise with your composition. Having some skill and practice at the drawing level will definitely help you have a more successful painting.

2. Not being organized from the beginning with how you set up your palette.

When you first learn how to paint you need to be organized with all your paint colors from the beginning. That means to set out your paints on your palette in the same order every time. Try to leave the most room on your palette for mixing your colors. You will have to mix just about every color you use to paint with so you need to have room on your palette for these color mixtures. As a beginner, you will be using trial and error to get the color you want and this will take time and practice to learn which colors you need to mix together to get what you want. If you put your paints out all over your palette with no apparent order, you will not have any room for mixing and will end up having to clean off your palette and starting with a clean palette.

3. Not putting enough paint on your palette the first time.

Many beginner painters will squeeze out a tiny bit of paint on their palette and find that they run out of that particular color rather rapidly and need to get more from the tube again. This can be a problem when you are using that particular color to mix with to make another color with. Don't be stingy with the paint, it is OK to squeeze out a generous amount of paint onto the palette. The paint will stay moist for several days (especially if you put it in the refrigerator) You will use up the paint eventually.

4. Brush work problems of over-doing the brush strokes,

Another common problem beginner painters have is they repeatedly paint over the same area inadvertently ending up with mud. There is a tendency to keep on stroking the same area in the hope it will magically change into something they are trying to do. Unfortunately painting doesn't work that way. Each paint stroke needs to be thought out carefully and done in a way that will not interfere with the other colors. Some of the color do not go together well and this may be the cause of the "mud" in the end. It is very frustrating for the beginner painter to encounter this problem. It is a matter of learning the color theory and learning more skill at handling the paint brush. This comes with time and experience.

5. Forgetting to clean the paint brush frequently and especially between colors.

It is vital to clean your brush frequently while you are painting. Especially when changing to a different color. For a beginning painter it is very easy to forget to clean the brush and accidentally contaminate one of your lighter colors with a previous darker color you were using. This can happen either on the palette or on the canvas. If it happens on the canvas it can sometimes be difficult to fix the area, you may have to just wipe the area off and start again. Even if you don't clean your brush off in the turp solvent, you can still just wipe it off on a paper towel or a rag and that will help.


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Acrylic Painting - Color Palette Basics

Today I am going to be talking about choosing your palette of colors, color mixing, and how I choose to apply my acrylics to my painting surface of choice.

I don't have a very extensive array of acrylic paints, but I think it is a lot of fun mixing colors. I think the color wheel is a good tool and starting off place for me (as well as for most artists, whether a beginner or professional), and experimentation is great fun and as artistic expression. I also read a lot of books and talk to a lot of artists to get hints and suggestions about everything from all directions. I think that is helpful to us all and I highly recommend it!

For starters, as a "color basis 101", I have been told to use black very sparingly, and I do. If I do use anything close to that, if is "Payne's Gray", but usually I like to mix complimentary colors for the darker areas and try to put lots of colors in my shadows. This really adds a lot of interest and beauty to your painting. Besides, if you are a true observer of nature you will notice that shadows are not black at all, but are made up of multiple and varied colors, values, and hues. Try to be a great observer!

I choose to paint with a pretty limited palette and mix my paints to achieve the effects that I want to achieve. This accomplishes several things. This will save you money (if that is a concern of yours) by limiting the number of tubes of paint you are required to purchase. This will teach you a lot about mixing paint to achieve the colors you require ( by referring to the color wheel). I feel that your colors are much more stunning and true to life by painting this way than using colors straight from the tube, anyway. I never use any colors directly from the tube anymore. And, by mixing your own colors, you will have a continuity through out your painting that can only be achieved in this way.

When working with a painting that will have a large amount of green in it, I like to first start out by placing a wash of red over the entire canvas (surface). Red being the complement of green "greys" down the green making it a more natural color in the end. This is a great tip to use when painting landscapes, etc. that will require a lot of greens, but that you don't want to have a harsh, or "kelly" green look to them. Another thing that I would definitely suggest is to mix your own greens (using blues and yellows) instead of a tube green - unless you go to a sap green or one of the already "greyed down" greens. Even those greens I mix with something else, I as said, previously.

I almost always like to do a wash on the surface before starting the painting as this does give a nice sense of cohesion to the painting. I have been told by a lot of artists that they feel the same way. Many times this is a complimentary color that will come shining through the subsequent layers of paint.

I usually start at the back of the painting and work toward the foreground saving the greater detail and stronger colors for the main subject and the aforementioned foreground area. When painting masses, such as muscles on an animal for example, these are usually darker areas and I start with these first when starting the subject. Then I work in many, many layers until finally reaching the lighter areas and highlights. My paintings always consist of multiple layers of glazes and/or washes - many times in the double digits - in order to achieve the effect that I wish to achieve.

Most importantly when working with colors, as with any aspect of painting, is to have fun with it! I think that if you do that it really comes through in your work. For examples of my acrylic paintings please visit http://www.hughbanksart.com I hope you can see that I have a passion about my work and that the "fun" I spoke of is coming through in my own pieces!

Debbie Hughbanks
http://www.hughbanksart.com/

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Colour - Get It Right, First Time

We have all experienced this when we were starting out: You are well along with a new painting when you realize that Something is Wrong! The problem will be due to one or both of two things: An unbalanced composition or a lack of colour harmony. In another article, I showed you how using what I call 'The Star' can help you avoid design mistakes from the outset. Now, I would like to show you the very best tool you will ever find for getting your colour composition right, every time.

You already know there are only three Primary Hues: Red, Yellow, Blue. Where they merge, they create the Secondary colours: Orange, Green, Purple. These are the major colours we see when light is projected through a prism, separating into its different wavelengths. A strip of these colours can be joined to make a circle: The Colour Wheel. Looking at a rainbow, or at a scene in nature, you will notice that many more colours than these are discernible.

And so, the basic principle of The Colour Wheel has been expanded to include the Tertiary colours: Red Purple, Blue Purple, Blue Green, Yellow Green and so on. Using this advanced model, you can make far more accurate colour matches.

Take a ruler and pencil a line joining any colour with the one opposite it on the Wheel. Each is the Complement of the other. For instance, the complement of Red is not Green, but Blue Green. The colours Adjacent, or next to, Red are Orange and Red Purple. If you pencil a wedge shape - or 'slice of the pie' - to include the Adjacent and the Dominant hues at the wide end, with the Complement at the pointy end, you will have the basis for a sound colour composition.

If you were to analyse any successful painting you see - in a museum or gallery or art journal - you would find the artist has used colours that fit into this wedge shape on the Wheel.

Taking that pencil again, draw an equal-sided triangle starting from the Dominant hue. The bottom corners of the triangle will be over the two Discord hues. Used sparingly, these colours will give your painting a pleasing contrast that enlivens the work. The final, and very important, element of your colour composition is made up of the Neutral hues. They are made by mixing a colour with varying amounts of its Complement.

Experiment by drawing a line between two colours, adding just a little more of the Complement to each as you work towards the centre of the Wheel. You can see how lively are the greys you can mix this way. Because they are made from the colours you are using in your painting, they will give the work a satisfying cohesiveness, while letting the eye rest from the dominant hues. A grey made by mixing White with Black is dead, artificial, and does nothing for your artwork.

So here is your 'recipe' for a colour-balanced painting: Dominant hue: comprises the bulk of the composition. Adjacent hues: equal amounts of both, but use less of each than the Dominant. Complement: very small amount (diminished in Chroma - more on that later.) Discord hues: equal, small amounts of each. Neutral hues: mixed from colours used in the painting.

Dorothy Gauvin is an internationally acclaimed Australian painter in oils who specializes in an epic theme of Australia's pioneers. See models of the Colour Wheel that you can freely print out and experiment with on her website at http://www.artgallerygauvin.com/

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Help! My Watercolor is Broken

I've learned through many years of my own watercolor mistakes and others that when you think your watercolor is broken... that that's not necessarily true! I taught art at the secondary level for 15 years so through fifteen years of helping students with their "broken paintings", and of course my own, I've learned to fix a lot that has been thought to be "waste basket material." You know what's really neat is that that particular painting sometimes becomes even better because of the creative fix.

I've always heard that watercolor painting is one of the most difficult types of mediums to paint in because it is unforgiving. I've found out though that with a good watercolor paper you can rub and scrub and scrape a lot of those mistakes away. Sometimes you can even run the paper under the water faucet to wash away all your paint, except for of course, the staining colors. I do believe though, that in order to paint a successful, non- frustrating watercolor painting, you must learn about the paint and also you must learn the basic watercolor techniques first. So take a class, watch a video, or read a book, whatever works best for you, to learn some of the basic watercolor techniques such as: graded washes, wet into wet, glazing, lifting and so on. You must most certainly learn to paint in stages, in other words, patience. Here's an example: You're gung ho and ready to paint a beautiful landscape so you paint the graded wash for the sky first. You must stop and let the sky completely dry before you paint the hard edged sawtooth mountains jutting up into the sky because if you don't wait, you'll end up with the fuzzytoothed mountains blurbing up into the sky. You will be more successful by beginning your painting with your watercolors in light values first and then build the darker values into the painting as you go. You can always get darker later, that's for sure. Sometimes you can't get lighter with watercolors unless you add an opaque white, which in my book is still o.k. to do, but you then are not a pure transparent watercolorist, if that is what you were striving to be.

So my point is, there are ways to fix a broken watercolor so don't give up. Learn the basics first to avoid many beginner problems but then remember.... With a tough watercolor paper, you can wash, scrape, erase, rub and scrub lots of those mistakes away. Don't give up and don't believe that watercolor is too difficult, because if I can do it, anyone can! That's that!

Paint like no one is watching!

www.plumedarcher.com

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Drawing Heart 3D Trick Art on Hand - Dirty Mind Trick Surprise Drawing

The Painter's Brush

The brush of a painter is an important tool through which the artist wields his power and expresses his emotions. The canvass, the oil, and all the other painting media are important too, but these leave the artist when the work is done.

Only the paint brushes stay, faithful and willing to participate in the making of the next masterpiece.

The stiff brushes are used for the majority of painting tasks and it comes in three shapes: the round, the flat and the filbert. For all ye art beginners, filbert is a shape that is rounded at the base and tapers to a point at the tip. Stiff brushes are made of hog bristles but there are also synthetic bristles available that can make acceptable results. Naturally, many painters prefer the genuine article.

The soft brushes are used for putting in fine details. Painters agree that the best soft brushes are the ones made of sable. Since sable brushes are expensive, there are substitutes available. But the brush strokes made using these replacements are not as good as the ones made by the sable-made soft brush.

There is also a kind of brush made of either sable or hog hair. It is called a fan-head brush and it is needed to seamlessly blend paint on the canvas.

We have heard of painters not taking a bath during a painting marathon, and there are painters known for having chaotic studios. But many painters liked to be organized and the most cared for of their tools are the brushes. Besides, many painters believed, though no scientific data supports this, that used but well cared-for brushes perform better than new ones.

The first rule in caring for paint brushes is to never use them to mix paint. There are painting knives to do this task. Another important thing to remember is to never stand the brushes, especially the soft ones, with the point down in the jar. Those expensive hair or bristles are sensitive and may be bent permanently.

When a painter mentors you to place just the right amount of paint on the brush, he wasn't thinking about saving the paint. He was trying to save the brush. Too much paint on it will clog the ferrules, the part that holds the hair or bristles together. If clogged, you have to clean it and cannot avoid parting the hairs. If done too often, the brush ultimately become useless.

Lastly, brushes should be cleaned as soon as you are done using them. You may use turpentine with soap and water. For soft brushes, these can be dipped in milk and allowed to dry for a couple of days. Remember to keep the tips up.

Grace Palce is writing articles for direct portrait, a very fast and easy photo to painting [http://www.directportrait.com/] service. Specializing in pet portraits [http://www.directportrait.com/pet-portrait.php]

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